BUZKASHI

I was lucky enough last week to witness the Afghan national sport of Buzkashi!!! By luck, a friend called on the spur of the moment and said to get down to the stadium to have a bit of a look.

We were worried that by the time we found the stadium we would miss the whole thing. Fortunately there was a second game and we were in plenty of time.
In Buzkashi, a headless carcass is placed in the center of a circle and surrounded by the players of two opposing teams. The object of the game, is to get control of the carcass and bring it to the scoring area. Although it seems like a simple task, it is not. First of all you have to pick it up off the ground, while you are sitting on a horse. Then you have to carry it around the field without letting anyone else steal it off you. And then you have to push your way through all the other players on their horses, who are trying to stop you from getting to the goal scoring area. And because there are so many other players, it is difficult to see the ground and drop it in the right place.

Traditionally, a calf is beheaded, the legs are cut off at the knee and its entrails are removed. The carcass of the calf is then soaked in cold water for 24 hours before the game so that it may be tough enough to withstand the tugging that takes place. When there is no calf available, a goat is used instead. At the start of the game, the carcass was hard and stiff, but by the end of the game, it as just like a sack of broken bones.

Excitement really arose when players were knocked off their horses to potentially be trampled under the hooves of others and when the horses got so close to the crowd, that spectators were almost trampled!

It was one of those things that was kinda really gross and scary, but fascinating at the same time. Really adding to the experience, was the opportunity to be among normal Afghans, although, as a foreign woman, I was seated in the secure VIP area. But walking into the stadium and looking at the people, relaxing at one of their most famous pastimes was really cool. Although having all of them stare at me was a little unsettling. Other foreigners are really surprised that I actually went. But I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

I’m so glad that I had the opportunity to see this, as it is one of the most important and unique cultural aspects of Afghanistan.